Nicolas Ghesquière set the stage for the Resort season in Rio de Janeiro this afternoon. Celebrities and fashion insiders—including Alicia Vikander, Alessandra Ambrosio, Zendaya and Jaden Smith—flocked to Brazil for the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2017 show at the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Niterói Contemporary Art Museum. The collection drew inspiration from the city's vibrant art and culture, featuring pieces in splashycolors and prints, and futuristic silhouettes with sporty details. Accessories were equally cool—with such standouts as the label's signature trunk made over to look like a boombox and gladiator sandals with an athletic update.
Rio de Janeiro is in the eye of a storm, beset by a collapsing government, economic turmoil and the zika-virus-carrying A. Aegypti mosquito. On top of that, it has an Olympic Games to deliver in 68 days. The metro system isn't finished, let alone the beach volleyball stadium which will be the pride of Copacabana Beach but is currently nothing more than a mass of scaffolding in the sand.
Into this maelstrom last night came Nicolas Ghesquière, artistic director of womenswear at Louis Vuitton, to showcase his latest cruise collection for the French luxury behemoth. At first glance, his choice of the Brazilian port city seems almost as quixotic as Karl Lagerfeld’s decision to stage a Chanel cruise show in Cuba three weeks ago. It's certainly as much of a fashion ‘first’ as the Havana spectacular since there's never before been a major international catwalk show in Rio. But while the Cubans have been cut off from the wider world in fashion terms for about 60 years, Brazilians have very much kept up with the rest of us. Not only do they have genuine card-carrying supermodels - Gisele Bundchen, Alessandra Ambrosio and Adriana Lima to name merely three - they are also avid consumers of Vuitton’s handbags, luggage and accessories. And now, surely, of its fashion too.
Ghesquière is a lover of architecture, so the choice of venue was almost as important for him as the clothes he paraded there. And his building of choice was certainly spectacular. The Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Niterói, designed by the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer and built in the 1990s, looks like a white flying saucer that has touched down on the tip of a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea about an hour’s drive from the centre of Rio. The only way out of the building is down a curving spool of crimson concrete that spirals down to the ground, creating the most dramatic runway any of the 47 seasoned models there can ever have walked. Louis Vuitton was founded in 1854 in order to help the wealthy travel in comfort and style, and Ghesquière has been true to the brief.
There was a sport and an athleticism to the clothes, whether white-stretch, multi-pocketed trousers, or performance-fabric, zip-fastened mini-dresses, that indicated that, whoever the Vuitton woman is, she’ll be going places this autumn. She’ll also be striding out in comfort since the shoes and boots shown on the catwalk were resolutely forgiving neoprene - and were the thong-toed lace-up boots inspired by flipflops? There were more nods to Brazil in the footballer print inspired by the local artist Aldemir Martins’ paintings of Pelè that adorned some tank tops. Meanwhile the ruffles, hot blues and reds, and cutaway sections on many of the mini-dresses evoked a spirit of carnival.
As did the bags - some of which were styled to look exactly like a 1980s boom box, while others delighted with their fringing, graffiti decoration and vibrant pinks, yellows and scarlets. ‘I’m a Frenchman who’s come to present a French luxury collection but it’s also tropical and exotic,’ explained Ghesquière. ‘Nature is explosive here, and at the same time you have these wonderful buildings. It’s a beautiful chaos.’
Watching this joyous marriage of Vuitton and Rio was a hand-picked group of celebrities including the French icon Catherine Deneuve, the Swedish Oscar winner Alicia Vikander, Jaden (son of Will) Smith, and Adriana Lima. Beautiful chaos indeed.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2017 Fashion Show took place in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil at the beautiful Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum, which set against the Atlantic Ocean and designed by architect Oscar Niemeyer.
Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum
Inside Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum
“I so admire the power of Oscar Niemeyer’s conviction. His vision, his radicality, his utopia even. Being able to show a fashion collection in such an architecturally powerful space is a sensorial experience. In Rio de Janeiro, what I saw most of all was movement and an explosive energy that lives somewhere between modernism and tropicality. I was fascinated by the constant duality between nature and urbanism and the pictorial explosion it creates. For me, the main question was how to incorporate into my collection all these elements that are part of Brazilian culture, without forgetting that I am just a visitor who brings his own Parisian and French cultural references to the moment.” said the creative director of the house of Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière.
The collection is sporty and artful with asymmetrical hems, peek-a-boo cutouts and lightweight layers. The accessories are futuristic. The gladiator-style sporty flat thong sandals and sneaker ankle boots are functional and practical, featuring molded comfortable sneaker sole with strap up or lace up around the ankle. The pointed toe booties are designed with T-bar front and finished in contrasted colors. Leather oxfords with large ankle cuff completed the silhouette with an edgy, confident and relaxed attitude.
Louis Vuitton continues to outdo itself with must see shows in exotic locales. Rio de Janeiro was the backdrop for their recent Cruise 2017 show, and the brand added ample sparkle by inviting well heeled celebrity guest and style stars.
Take a look at who had an ticket to the front row:
Zendaya is such a beauty! The pretty young thing added a red lip to Louis Vuitton Fall 2016 printed dress, an LV Fall 2017 Ready to Wear Twist MM Bag, and the brand’s $970Unchain Ankle Strap Sandals. Boom!
She keeps getting better!
Model Liu Wen shined in a red accented Fall 2017 frock.
Jaden Smith smized in a Fall 2017 Louis Vuitton women’s jacket. He pulls it off!
It was hard to miss Miroslava Duma in black on black Louis Vuitton.
Marc Newson, pictured with three rolling trunks made in collaboration with Louis Vuitton
Australia's most lauded design export, Marc Newson, has again collaborated with Louis Vuitton on a range of rolling luggage that marries the designer's signature predilection for biomorphic curvilinear forms and bold colours with the 'art of travel' ethos that underpins the storied French house.
Dropping in stores from July 15 and online from September 30, Vuitton and Newson's rolling trunks were 18 months in the making and are a surefire sign that haute hand luggage has reached its zenith. Each piece boasts, per Vuitton, "a new type of self-reinforced polypropylene composite, essentially representing the structure of the trunk, moulded in a mesh matrix of several layers" - meaning the cases are both light and able to withstand the rigours of travel. Other innovations include "a transversal side hinge" that allows for a complete 180 degree opening; a three-digit TSA approved combination lock to secure your invaluable assets and a single zip - all in the name of reducing weight and streamlining your time in transit, and all of which are patent pending.
"I think it’s safe to say that we’re striving to break new ground in terms of developing a product which is one of the lightest on the market, and from a technical perspective is one of the most rigorously designed and engineered" says Newson.
Newson has previously worked with Vuitton on the creation of a leather and shearling backpack 'Celebrating Monogram'.
Gotta catch 'em all, I guess.
"I’m obsessive about packing everything into a bag of a certain size"
Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
The Newson x LV trunk will be available in the signature Monogram canvas, Monogram Eclipse, Damier check print, Graphite, Taiga leather and in natural cowhide leather that comes in seven colours of Epi leather
Newson's designs, 18 months in development, eventuated in an increased internal volume of 15%
"What compelled me to join forces with Louis Vuitton was the challenge to design a great piece of luggage, because like a lot of people, I travel a lot"
Courtesy Louis Vuitton Malletier
In addition to its Monogram and Damier canvases, the bag will also be available in seven bright colors of Epi leather.
Long before French fashion house Louis Vuitton had started showing highly covetable ready-to-wear collections in settings like Oscar Niemeyer’s Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Niterói in Rio, its founder began the brand in 1854, as a small shop specializing in “packing fashion.” Louis Vuitton soon created his first trunk, the Trianon, which owed its success to design breakthroughs at the time, including the use of canvas and glue for its casing, which would keep the clothing inside from smelling of leather. Now, after almost two centuries, the fashion house has pivoted again—in partnership with acclaimed industrial designer Marc Newson on a new line of rolling trunks for the 21st-century traveler.
To start: The carry-on luggage is light. We're talking under five pounds for the carry-on bag, and just under seven pounds for the larger, 37-liter cabin size. While the design is reminiscent of the iconic trunks (think: side hinges and leather corner coverings), the latest styles are the brand’s most aerodynamic yet. Canvas, glue, and leather are now upgraded with self-reinforced polypropylene composite worked into a multi-layered mesh matrix—meaning the elasticity lets the bag absorb shock as it moves.
The bag also has a lightweight aluminum exoskeleton of sorts, which fully opens up the interior packing space—this material also helps to drastically reduce the overall weight of the piece. (The trunk comes in two cabin sizes, and a check-in sized trunk is forthcoming.) But the true contemporary move for Louis Vuitton? The bag, which launches in late September in the brand’s Monogram and Damier canvases, will also be available in a range of seven bright colors of Epi leather—a primary-color rainbow of options.
“I’m obsessive about packing everything into a bag of a certain size, which is why it was so important for me to design a product that could tick all of those boxes and be the kind of perfect piece of luggage for a person like me, that travels and won’t travel with anything more than is absolutely necessary,” says Newson in Condé Nast Traveler's exclusive release of Louis Vuitton’s video on the line. “The brief that I had for the project was fairly open. Really, it was to redesign, primarily, carry-on luggage, but to design it in a way that was appropriate for, say, a contemporary traveler."
IMAGE: LOUIS VUITTON
If you’re a fan of Louis Vuitton (who isn’t these days, especially with what Kim Jones has done for the mens collection in recent years) and design wunderkind Marc Newson, here’s a new collection from the French luxury house that will get you excited for sure.
In collaboration with Marc Newson, Louis Vuitton has launched a new collection ofRolling Luggages that aims to meet the needs of today’s 21st century traveller. Featuring 3 important innovations that every frequent flyer will appreciate, it a) is made up of an ultra-thin titanium layer bonded to the polypropylene composite shell that makes it super lightweight, b) comes with an external full-width extendable cane (handle) with a simple zip puller closing system and c) is the very first of all Louis Vuitton luggages today to have four wheels, In other words, it’s light, it’s easy to use and most importantly, it will be easier to manoeuver as well, which should cut time spent from the time you disembark the plane to getting into your car by at least a third.
Available in 2 sizes, a Mini50 and a Cabin55 (because God forbid you check in something as gorgeous and as precious as this), this would be the luggage you use for a short two-day trip (use the Mini 50) or go for the maximum allowed onto any airline (the Cabin 55).
IMAGES: LOUIS VUITTON
Now for the best part. The Rolling Luggages will come in at least 6 different finishes, which means after you’ve decided on the size, you’ll have to choose from between the following: Monogram Canvas, Monogram Eclipse, Damier Graphite, Epi (a virtual rainbow of choices here), Taiga and something called VVN, which is basically Vuitton’s vachetta leather wrapped around the entire luggage and one that will patina beautifully over time.
IMAGE: LOUIS VUITTON
Priced from SGD3650 all the way to SGD8100 depending on finish and size, here’s another bit of information that will please all of you in Singapore. Whilst the rest of South Asia will only get this new collection sometime in end-September, we can all buy it now at Louis Vuitton boutiques across the island, from Marina Bay Sands to Ngee Ann City and ION Orchard.
So what do I have my eye on? Right now it’s the Cabin55 in either Monogram Canvas orMonogram Eclipse, which are also the only ones (along with Damier Graphite) that can be personalised with your initials with LV’s Mon Monogram service. How not to #LVOE?
Louis Vuitton News
Since 2003, Louis Vuitton has been known for its chocolate-brown packaging, but now the 162-year-old brand is taking on a brighter shade.
Officially called safran impérial (imperial saffron), the ochre hue will be featured on the brand's shopping bags and boxes for all purchases. Cobalt-blue ribbons and bag handles will complement the bright color.
The new packaging started arriving in stores over the weekend, along with a new rolling suitcase designed by Marc Newson. According to Michael Burke, the chairman and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton, the packaging will eventually roll out to the brand's 450 stores worldwide.
"We don't want the packaging to be fashionable. It's supposed to have quite a long life cycle," Burke told WWD. "In most cases, brand colors play off of black and white. We wanted to be different."
The label has a close relationship with the color scheme. The yellow hue was featured on a vintage Vuitton trunk, the Citroën, which was commissioned by the French carmaker for an expedition in 1924. The color is also similar to the shade of the brand's handles, trim, and labels since 1860. Since Vuitton's inception in 1854, blue details have been used for personalization in the form of initials and ribbons.
Most recently, Nicolas Ghesquière, the brand's artistic director, featured the shade on many of its popular handbags, including the Petite Malle and the Twist MM. Saffron also showed up on the fall and spring 2016 catwalks at various labels, including Gucci, Prabal Gurung, and Prada.
The new packaging is made to last longer than the old packaging—it's thicker and more resilient—and is more collapsible than ever before.
Louis Vuitton is getting an all new look. The French fashion and lifestyle brand is trading in their usual brown packaging for a bright new saffron shade. The shade is called “Imperial Saffron” and has graced some of the maison’s heritage pieces including some of their most iconic trunks. Louis Vuitton’s shopping bags and boxes for all purchases will take on this citrusy color which gets an added burst of contrast with a cobalt blur trim in the form of bag handles and ribbons.
The new packaging will hit LV stores this weekend so don’t be surprised when your purchases are given the saffron treatment. “We don’t want the packaging to be fashionable. It’s supposed to have quite a long life cycle,” Michael Burke, chairman and C.E.O. at LV told WWD. “In most cases, brand colors play off of black and white. We wanted to be different.”
The color, or variations of it, have been seen on LV products before, it’s also been used in their “Volez Voguez Voyagez” exhibition in Paris. Along with boasting a new color, the new packaging will also be more durable thanks to increased thickness and more resilience.
1. Study: China’s Luxury Travelers Value Experience Over Shopping. When wealthy Chinese travelers head abroad, they’re prioritizing experiential luxury such as dining and seeking out unique cultural activities, but shopping still fits in big to their travel plans. - JING
2. After years of its trademark brown packaging, Louis Vuitton turns to saffron: Since 2003, Louis Vuitton has been known for its chocolate-brown packaging, but now the 162-year-old brand is taking on a brighter shade. - Allure
3. Highly secretive C&A Brenninkmeijer is a global powerhouse in fashion retailing. - Forbes
4. How designers are responding to fashion's overproduction problem. - i-D
5. Hearst tightens budgets as publishers reel from fall advertising pullback: The magazine industry continues to reel as traditional advertisers cut their print budgets and consumers spend less on subscriptions and at the newsstand. -WWD
6. Anne Elizabeth Moore on the global garment and sex trades: What links the world of fashion, the international sex and garment trades, and human trafficking? - Truth-Out
7. Selena Gomez rakes in $550,000 per social media post: Gomez currently stands in the No. 1 slot and, per D'Marie, is worth $550,000 per social media post when the messaging appears across Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. -AdWeek
8. Does Taylor Swift have a good legal argument for suing Kim Kardashian? -Jezebel
Tag: Louis Vuitton New Introduces Packaging
Louis Vuitton News
Louis Vuitton is one of the most recognized luxury brands in the world, thanks to its iconic Monogram pattern. According to Forbes, LV was the most valuable luxury brand of 2015. At PORTERO you will find authentic pristine and pre-owned Louis Vuitton bags and accessories, at up to 75% off retail.
Learn about the history of this classic brand in this brief infographic, or dig deeper into the story of this French maison by scrolling through the timeline.
1837. 16 year-old Louis Vuitton arrives in Paris, by foot, and becomes the apprentice of trunkmaker Monsieur Maréchal.
1854. Louis Vuitton opens his own shop at N°4 Rue Neuve des Capucines in Paris, France.
1858. Louis Vuitton introduces trunks in gray trianon canvas and flat top and bottom, making them the first stackable trunks.
1859. Louis Vuitton establishes an atelier in Asnières sur Seine, where it still stands today as a factory, museum, and family home.
1867. Louis Vuitton wins a bronze medal at the Exposition Universelle, in Paris.
1871. The shop moves to 1 rue Scribe.
1873. Louis Vuitton’s son, Georges Vuitton, joins the company.
1876. To avoid counterfeits and replicas, Vuitton changes the trianon canvas pattern to a beige and brown striped design, known as the Rayée Canvas.
1888. No matter his efforts, counterfeit Vuitton trunks was a big issue, and so the Damier canvas pattern is introduced and trademarked.
Louis Vuitton Petit Malle Damier $5,095. Pre-Owned Louis Vuitton Damier Boite Flacons $ 3,800. Louis Vuitton Damier Grimaud $2,600. Louis Vuitton Nolita GM Damier Ebene $1,380.
1889. Louis Vuitton wins a gold medal at the Exposition Universelle.
1892. Louis Vuitton dies.
1896. The Monogram Canvas is introduced, taking inspiration from the popular Oriental designs that were in vogue during the Victorian era.
Pre-Owned Louis Vuitton Moyen Montsouris MM Monogram Canvas Backpack $750. Louis Vuitton Doc PM Monogram Canvas Bag $1,400. Louis Vuitton NN14 Monogram Idole GM $2,850.Louis Vuitton Tambourine Monogram Canvas $660.
1897. Georges’ son, Gaston-Louis Vuitton, joins the company.
1914. The Louis Vuitton store at 70 Avenue des Champs-Élysées opens its doors, replacing the store at 1 Rue Scribe.
1930. The Keepall makes its debut.
Louis Vuitton Keepall Bandouliere 52 Monogram $599. Louis Vuitton Keepall 50 Black Epi Leather $980. Louis Vuitton Keepall 50 Tan Epi Leather $1,050. Louis Vuitton Keepall 55 Red Epi Leather $899.
1930s. Georges decides to make a smaller version of the Keepall, and the Speedy is born.
Louis Vuitton Green Graffiti Speedy 30 Monogram $1,860. Louis Vuitton Speedy 25 Damier Azur$690. Louis Vuitton Caresse Mink Speedy 25 $4,070. Louis Vuitton Monogram Green Kusama Speedy 30 $2,150.
1932. A champagne producer needs a bag able to hold five bottles of champagne, and Louis Vuitton creates the Noé.
Vintage Louis Vuitton Petit Noe Yellow Epi Leather $580. Louis Vuitton Noe Red Epi Leather$540. Louis Vuitton Petit Noe Etain Epi Leather $980. Louis Vuitton Noe Blue Epi Leather $460.
1934. Inspired by the Art Deco movement, the Squire bag is created. Today, the Squire is known as the Alma, after Place de L’Alma, a square in Paris.
Louis Vuitton Alma BB Azteque $2,300. Louis Vuitton Alma Monogram $650. Louis Vuitton Alma Monogram Vernis PM $1,675. Louis Vuitton Alma in Red Epi Leather $699.
1936. Georges Vuitton dies.
1954. In honor of Louis Vuitton’s 100th anniversary, the flagship store moves from the Champs-Élysées to AvenueMarceau.
1970. The third generation Vuitton owner, Gaston Vuitton, dies.
1985. Launch of the Epi Leather collection.
Louis Vuitton Saint Jacques PM Yellow Epi Leather $530. Louis Vuitton Alma GM Blue Epi Leather$1,600. Louis Vuitton Tilsitt Brown Kenyan Fawn Epi Leather $620. Louis Vuitton Art Deco MM Black Epi Leather $299.
1997. Marc Jacobs becomes Louis Vuitton’s first creative director, designing the company’s very first prêt-à-portercollection.
1998. Opening of Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Élysées.
2001. Launch of Louis Vuitton jewelry.
2003. Louis Vuitton collaborates with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, creating the Multicolore Monogram.
Read:Takashi Murakami for Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Murakami Monogram Panda Handbag $599. Louis Vuitton Dalmatian Sac Rabat Monogram Canvas and Pony hair $1,325. Louis Vuitton Murakami Cherry Blossom Pochette $580.Louis Vuitton White Multicolore Pochette $340.
2006. Launch of the Monogram Mini Lin and Damier Azur lines.
2008. Launch of the Graphite Damier and Sofia Coppola Collections.
2007. The popular Neverfull tote enters the market.
Louis Vuitton Cyan Turquoise Blue Epi Neverfull MM $1,499. Louis Vuitton Monogram Rose Velours Ikat Neverfull MM $2,750. Louis Vuitton Red Monogram Kusama Waves Neverfull MM$3,100. Louis Vuitton Green Monogram Graffiti Neverfull GM $3,200.
2013. Nicolas Ghesquière replaces Marc Jacobs as Artistic Director.
2013. The Louis Vuitton Capucines is introduced.
2014. The Petit Malle is unveiled.
Louis Vuitton Red Epi Petite Malle $5,200. Louis Vuitton Petite Malle Damier Ebene $5,095. Louis Vuitton Black Epi Petite Malle with Gold Trim $5,600. Louis Vuitton Monogram Petite Malle$5,200.
Louis Vuitton News
Louis Vuitton – When he was only sixteen years old, Louis Vuitton made a decision that would not only change his own life but the lives of his sons and future generations, he would become a trunk maker.
Louis Vuitton was a French box-maker and packer who founded the luxury brand of the same name over 150 years ago. From humble beginnings in the French countryside, Vuitton’s skill, innovation and determination quickly saw his signature trunks coveted by the world’s elite. Now, with Marc Jacobs at the helm as creative director since 1997, the house has expanded its offering to include bags, clothing, shoes, accessories and jewellery, making it one of the most valuable luxury brands in the world.
Vuitton was born on August 4, 1821 in Anchay, a small working-class settlement in the east of France. His father, Xavier Vuitton, was a farmer and his mother, Coronne Gaillard – who died when he was 10 – a miller.
At the age of 13, tired of provincial life and of his strict stepmother, Vuitton left home for Paris. The 292 mile journey took him two years on foot with stops to carry out odd jobs to support himself along the way.
Upon arrival in Paris in 1837, Vuitton became an apprentice at a successful box-making and packing workshop – a craft that was highly respected at the time. Within a few years he had gained a reputation as one of the best in his field in the city.
Vuitton’s fortunes rose again in 1853 when he was appointed the personal box-maker and packer of the Empress of France, Eugenie de Montijo – the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. The Empress charged Vuitton with beautifully packaging her clothes for transportation between the Tuileres Palace, the Château de Saint-Cloud and various seaside resorts. The position opened the doors to a new class of elite and royal clientele.
In 1854 Vuitton married 17-year-old Clemence-Emilie Parriaux. Shortly afterwards he left the shop he had apprenticed for and opened his own box-making and packing workshop in Paris. The sign outside read: “Securely packs the most fragile objects. Specialising in packing fashions”. He also began creating his trunks in canvas instead of leather, which gave them the advantage of being hard-wearing and waterproof.
Four years later, Vuitton introduced stackable rectangular shaped trunks to a market in which they had previously been rounded. Demand for the innovative and convenient trunk, which addressed the requirements of increasingly popular travel by train, was such that he had to expand into a larger workshop outside of Paris.
In 1867 Vuitton was awarded a bronze medal at the Exposition Universelle, an international exposition organised by Napoleon and held in Paris, which further increased the popularity of his work.
During the Franco-Prussian War, from 1870-71, Vuitton’s workshop was looted and destroyed. Once the war ended he set up a new workshop in an aristocratic area of central Paris.
Vuitton introduced a trunk in a beige and red striped canvas in 1872. The design appealed to the new Parisian elite and helped secure the brand’s position as a luxury offering.
In 1889 Vuitton won a gold medal and the grand prize at the Exposition Universelle, which once again helped to bolster the popularity of his work.
Vuitton continued to work until his death at the age of 72 on February 27, 1892. He left control of the company to his son, Georges Vuitton.
In 1896, in response to widespread copying of the brand’s patterns (a problem that continues to plague the house today), Georges created the famous LV monogram canvas – featuring diamonds, circles and flowers – to distinguish the brand’s products.
The Louis Vuitton building, the largest travel-goods store in world, was opened on the Champs-Élysées in 1914 and counted Coco Chanel as a patron.
Bag shapes that remain popular fashion staples today were introduced throughout the 1900s. The Steamer bag, a smaller piece designed to be kept inside the luggage trunks, was introduced in 1901. The Keepall bag was debuted in 1930 followed by the Noé bag, which was originally designed to carry Champagne, in 1932, and, in 1966, the cylindrical Pappillon bag.
Thanks to advances in technology and a new coating process, a supple version of the monogram canvas was created in 1959. This allowed it to be used for purses, bags and wallets.
In 1997 Marc Jacobs was appointed the house’s first creative director and was charged with introducing men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections. At the time, Jacobs told US Vogue: “What I have in mind are things that are deluxe but that you can also throw into a bag and escape town with, because Louis Vuitton has a heritage in travel.”
Jacobs collaborated with designer Stephen Sprouse in 2001 to create a limited-edition line of bags featuring “Louis Vuitton” written in graffiti over the monogram pattern.
The house has cultivated a strong celebrity following under Jacobs’ direction and many models, actors and musicians have been the face of the brand. For the Core Values campaign, introduced in 2007 and aimed at showcasing the brand’s travel roots, celebrities such as Angelina Jolie, Bono, Sean Connery, Keith Richards and Catherine Deneuve have appeared. Other campaigns have included Natalia Vodianova, Christy Turlington and Kate Elson for autumn/winter 2010-11; Madonna for spring/summer 2009; Diane Kruger, Chloe Sevigny, Christina Ricci and Scarlett Johanssen for spring/summer 2007; Scarlett Johanssen for autumn/winter 2004-05; and Jennifer Lopez for autumn/winter 2003-04.
In 2012 the house won a landmark ruling in the US protecting it from large-scale international counterfeiting. The ruling helps stop the import of goods into the US that illegally bear the brand’s trademarks, and penalises companies that facilitate the trade of those goods.
In the same year Louis Vuitton was named the world’s most valuable luxury brand for the seventh year in a row in a study conducted by Millward Brown Optimor. Valued at $25.9 billion (£16.5 billion) it beat Hermes, valued at $19.1 billion (£12.1 billion) in second place and Rolex, at $7.17 billion (£4.57 billion) in third place.
Louis Vuitton Malletier, commonly referred to as Louis Vuitton or shortened to LV, is a French fashion house founded in 1854 by Louis Vuitton. The label’s LV monogram appears on most of its products, ranging from luxury trunks and leather goods to ready-to-wear, shoes, watches, jewelry, accessories, sunglasses and books. Louis Vuitton is one of the world’s leading international fashion houses; it sells its products through standalone boutiques, lease departments in high-end department stores, and through the e-commerce section of its website. For six consecutive years (2006–2012), Louis Vuitton was named the world’s most valuable luxury brand. Its 2012 valuation was US$25.9 billion.The 2013 valuation of the brand was US$28.4 billion with revenue of US$9.4 billion. The company operates in 50 countries with more than 460 stores worldwide.
The Louis Vuitton label was founded by Vuitton in 1854 on Rue Neuve des Capucines in Paris, France. Louis Vuitton had observed that the HJ Cave Osilite trunk could be easily stacked and in 1858, Vuitton introduced his flat-bottom trunks with trianon canvas, making them lightweight and airtight. Before the introduction of Vuitton’s trunks, rounded-top trunks were used, generally to promote water run off, and thus could not be stacked. It was Vuitton’s gray Trianon canvas flat trunk that allowed the ability to stack with ease for voyages. Many other luggagemakers imitated LV’s style and design.
The company participated in the 1867 Universal Exhibition in Paris. To protect against the duplication of his look, Vuitton changed the Trianon design to a beige and brown stripes design in 1876. By 1885, the company opened its first store in London on Oxford Street. Soon thereafter, due to the continuing imitation of his look, in 1888, Vuitton created the Damier Canvas pattern, which bore a logo that reads “marque L. Vuitton déposée”, which translates into “L. Vuitton registered trademark”. In 1892, Louis Vuitton died, and the company’s management passed to his son.
Advert for Louis Vuitton luggage, 1898.
After the death of his father, Georges Vuitton began a campaign to build the company into a worldwide corporation, exhibiting the company’s products at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. In 1896, the company launched the signature Monogram Canvas and made the worldwide patents on it. Its graphic symbols, including quatrefoils and flowers (as well as the LV monogram), were based on the trend of using Japanese and Oriental designs in the late Victorian era. The patents later proved to be successful in stopping counterfeiting. In this same year, Georges traveled to the United States, where he toured cities such as New York, Philadelphia, and Chicago, selling Vuitton products. In 1901, the Louis Vuitton Company introduced the Steamer Bag, a smaller piece of luggage designed to be kept inside Vuitton luggage trunks.
By 1913, the Louis Vuitton Building opened on the Champs-Elysees. It was the largest travel-goods store in the world at the time. Stores also opened in New York, Bombay, Washington, London, Alexandria, and Buenos Aires as World War I began. Afterwards, in 1930, the Keepall bag was introduced. During 1932, LV introduced the Noé bag. This bag was originally made for champagne vintners to transport bottles. Soon thereafter, the Louis Vuitton Speedy bag was introduced (both are still manufactured today). In 1936 Georges Vuitton died, and his son, Gaston-Louis Vuitton, assumed control of the company.
In 1938 the writer Eric Newby bought a Louis Vuitton trunk from a railway lost property shop in London’s East India Dock Road, to take with him on board when he shipped as an apprentice on the four-masted square-rigged sailing ship Moshulu, on what turned out to be the last Grain Race between Australia and Europe. He went out in 1938 and sailed back in 1939. He tells of his adventures in his autobiographical book The Last Grain Race.
During World War II, Louis Vuitton collaborated with the Nazis during the German occupation of France. The French book Louis Vuitton, A French Saga, authored by French journalist Stephanie Bonvicini and published by Paris-based Editions Fayard tells how members of the Vuitton family actively aided the puppet government led by Marshal Philippe Pétain and increased their wealth from their business affairs with the Germans. The family set up a factory dedicated to producing artifacts glorifying Pétain, including more than 2,500 busts.
Caroline Babulle, a spokeswoman for the publisher, Fayard, said: “They have not contested anything in the book, but they are trying to bury it by pretending it doesn’t exist.” Responding to the book’s release in 2004, a spokesman for LVMH said: “This is ancient history. The book covers a period when it was family-run and long before it became part of LVMH. We are diverse, tolerant and all the things a modern company should be.”An LVMH spokesman told the satirical magazine Le Canard Enchainé: “We don’t deny the facts, but regrettably the author has exaggerated the Vichy episode. We haven’t put any pressure on anyone. If the journalists want to censor themselves, then that suits us fine.” That publication was the only French periodical to mention the book, LVMH is the country’s biggest advertiser in the press.
1945 through 2000
See also: Louis Vuitton Cup, America’s Cup, and LVMH
Louis Vuitton store in Nicosia, Cyprus
Louis Vuitton store in Lugano, Switzerland.
Louis Vuitton store in Ontario
During this period, Louis Vuitton began to incorporate leather into most of its products, which ranged from small purses and wallets to larger pieces of luggage. In order to broaden its line, the company revamped its signature Monogram Canvas in 1959 to make it more supple, allowing it to be used for purses, bags, and wallets. It is believed that in the 1920s, counterfeiting returned as a greater issue to continue on into the 21st century. In 1966, the Papillon was launched (a cylindrical bag that is still popular today). By 1977 with annual revenue up to 70 million Francs ($14.27 million US$). A year later, the label opened its first stores in Japan: in Tokyo and Osaka. In 1983, the company joined with America’s Cup to form the Louis Vuitton Cup, a preliminary competition (known as an eliminatory regatta) for the yacht race. Louis Vuitton later expanded its presence in Asia with the opening of a store in Taipei, Taiwan in 1983 and Seoul, South Korea in 1984. In the following year, 1985, the Epi leather line was introduced.
1987 saw the creation of LVMH. Moët et Chandon and Hennessy, leading manufacturers of champagne and cognac, merged respectively with Louis Vuitton to form the luxury goods conglomerate. Profits for 1988 were reported to have been up by 49% more than in 1987. By 1989, Louis Vuitton came to operate 130 stores worldwide. Entering the 1990s, Yves Carcelle was named president of LV, and in 1992, his brand opened its first Chinese location at the Palace Hotel in Beijing. Further products became introduced such as the Taiga leather line in 1993, and the literature collection of Voyager Avec… in 1994. In 1996, the celebration of the Centennial of the Monogram Canvas was held in seven cities worldwide.
In 1997, Louis Vuitton made Marc Jacobs its Artistic Director. In March of the following year, he designed and introduced the company’s first “prêt-à-porter” line of clothing for men and women. Also in this year products introduced included the Monogram Vernis line, the LV scrapbooks, and the Louis Vuitton City Guide.
The last events in the 20th century were the release of the mini monogram line in 1999, the opening of the first store in Africa in Marrakech, Morocco in 2000, and finally the auction at the International Film Festival in Venice, Italy, where the vanity case “amfAR” designed by Sharon Stone was sold with the proceeds going to The Foundation for AIDS Research (also in 2000).
2001 to 2011
The store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue.
A Louis Vuitton boutique in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, in Milan, Italy.
5th Avenue, NYC, 2013
A Louis Vuitton store in Central, Hong Kong.
Louis Vuitton VIP room in Vienna for ordering custom designed goods.
By 2001, Stephen Sprouse, in collaboration with Marc Jacobs, designed a limited-edition line of Vuitton bags that featured graffiti written over the monogram pattern. The graffiti read Louis Vuitton and, on certain bags, the name of the bag (such as Keepall and Speedy). Certain pieces, which featured the graffiti without the Monogram Canvas background, were only available on Louis Vuitton’s V.I.P. customer list. Jacobs also created the charm bracelet, the first ever piece of jewelry from LV, within the same year.
In 2002, the Tambour watch collection was introduced. During this year, the LV building in Tokyo’s Ginza district was opened, and the brand collaborated with Bob Wilson for its Christmas windows sceneography. In 2003, Takashi Murakami, in collaboration with Marc Jacobs, masterminded the new Monogram Multicolore canvas range of handbags and accessories. This range included the monograms of the standard Monogram Canvas, but in 33 different colors on either a white or black background. (The classic canvas features gold monograms on a brown background.) Murakami also created the Cherry Blossom pattern, in which smiling cartoon faces in the middle of pink and yellow flowers were sporadically placed atop the Monogram Canvas. This pattern appeared on a limited number of pieces. The production of this limited-edition run was discontinued in June 2003. Within 2003, the stores in Moscow, Russia and in New Delhi, India were opened, the Utah and Suhali leather lines were released, and the 20th anniversary of the LV Cup was held.
Louis Vuitton situated on the famous Champs-Elysées.
The store in Yekaterinburg (Russia)
Louis Vuitton on Briggate, Leeds.
In 2004, Louis Vuitton celebrated its 150th anniversary. The brand also inaugurated stores in New York City (on Fifth Avenue), São Paulo, Mexico City, Cancun and Johannesburg. It also opened its first global store in Shanghai. By 2005, Louis Vuitton reopened its Champs-Élysées store in Paris designed by the American Architect Eric Carlson, and released the Speedy watch collection. In 2006, LV held the inauguration of the Espace Louis Vuitton on its 7th floor. In 2008, Louis Vuitton released the Damier Graphite canvas. The canvas features the classic Damier pattern but in black and grey, giving it a masculine look and urban feel. Also in 2008, Pharrell Williams co-designed a series of jewelry (“Blason”) and glasses for Louis Vuitton.
In 2010, Louis Vuitton opened what it described as their most luxurious store in London.
In early 2011, Louis Vuitton hired Kim Jones as its “Men Ready-to-Wear Studio and Style Director”. He became the lead designer of menswear while working under the company-wide artistic directorship of Marc Jacobs.
On 17 September 2011, Louis Vuitton opened its first Island Maison (island mansion) in Singapore, the first ‘maison’ to be opened in South-east Asia.
2012 to present
As of September 2013, the company hired Darren Spaziani to lead its accessory collection.
On 4 November 2013, the company confirmed that Nicolas Ghesquière had been hired to replace Marc Jacobs as artistic director of women’s collections. Ghesquière’s first line for the company was shown in Paris in March 2014.
On 7 April 2014, Edouard Schneider became the head of press and public relations at Louis Vuitton under Frédéric Winckler, who is Vuitton’s communications and events director.
The Louis Vuitton brand and the LV monogram are among the world’s most valuable brands. According to a Millward Brown 2010 study, Louis Vuitton is the world’s 29th most valuable brand, right after Gillette and before Wells Fargo. The brand itself is estimated to be worth over US$19 billion. For six consecutive years, Louis Vuitton was number one of the ten most powerful brands list published by the Millward Brown Optimor’s 2011 BrandZ study with value of $24.3 billion. It was more than double the value of the second ranking brand.
A Louis Vuitton “Sarah Wallet”
Louis Vuitton is one of the most counterfeited brands in the fashion world due to its image as a status symbol. Ironically, the signature Monogram Canvas was created to prevent counterfeiting. In 2004, Louis Vuitton fakes accounted for 18% of counterfeit accessories seized in the European Union.
The company actively seeks to tackle counterfeiting, and employs a team of lawyers and special investigation agencies to pursue offenders through the courts worldwide. The company allocates approximately half of its communications budget to counteract counterfeiting of its goods. LVMH (Vuitton’s parent company) further confirmed this by stating: “Some 60 people at various levels of responsibility working full-time on anti-counterfeiting in collaboration with a wide network of outside investigators and a team of lawyers.” The company closely controls the distribution of its products. Until the 1980s, Vuitton products were widely sold in department stores (e.g., Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue). Today, Vuitton products are primarily available at authentic Louis Vuitton boutiques, with a small number of exceptions. These boutiques are commonly found in upscale shopping districts or inside luxury department stores. The boutiques within department stores operate independently from the department and have their own LV managers and employees. LV has an online store, through its main website, as an authorized channel to market its products.
In 2006, the company attempted to have the LV.com domain name compulsorily transferred to it from its American proprietor; the action failed and the domain was subsequently acquired by LV=, an English friendly society/insurance company.
Louis Vuitton products
Since the 19th century, Louis Vuitton trunks have been made by hand. Contemporary Fashion gives a preview of the creation of the LV trunks: “The craftsmen line up the leather and canvas, tapping in the tiny nails one by one and securing the five-letter solid pick-proof brass locks with an individual handmade key, designed to allow the traveler to have only one key for all of his or her luggage. The wooden frames of each trunk are made of 30-year-old poplar that has been allowed to dry for at least four years. Each trunk has a serial number and can take up to 60 hours to make, and a suitcase as many as 15 hours.”
Iconic bags of Louis Vuitton include the Speedy bag and Neverfull bags. Each season Louis Vuitton produces rare, limited edition bags that are generally only available by reservation through larger Louis Vuitton stores.
Many of the company’s products utilize the brown Damier and Monogram Canvas materials, both of which were first used in the late 19th century. All of the company’s products exhibit the eponymous LV initials. The company markets its product through its own stores located throughout the world, which allows it to control product quality and pricing. It also allows LV to prevent counterfeit products entering its distribution channels. In addition, the company distributes its products through the company’s own website, LouisVuitton.com.
The Louis Vuitton company seeks to cultivate a celebrity following and has used famous models, musicians, and actors such as Keith Richards, Madonna, Sean Connery, Hayden Christensen, Angelina Jolie, Gisele Bündchen and most recently David Bowie in its marketing campaigns. On 2 August 2007, the company announced that the former USSR leader Mikhail Gorbachev would appear in an ad campaign along with Steffi Graf and Catherine Deneuve. Many rappers, most notably Kanye West, Juicy J and Wiz Khalifa have mentioned the company in certain songs.
The company commonly uses print ads in magazines and billboards in cosmopolitan cities. Louis Vuitton Posters by Razzia were popular in the 1980s. It previously relied on selected press for its advertising campaigns (frequently involving prestigious stars like Steffi Graf, Andre Agassi and Catherine Deneuve) shot by Annie Leibovitz. However, Antoine Arnault, director of the communication department, has recently decided to enter the world of television and cinema: The commercial (90 seconds) is exploring the theme “Where will life take you?” and is translated into 13 different languages. This is the first Vuitton commercial ad ever and was directed by renowned French ad director Bruno Aveillan.
Louis Vuitton has had many collaborations with prominent artists and designers. Takashi Murakami created special edition collections, such as the Monogramouflage Collection, which debuted in 2008, and a previous collection, released in 2002, which featured some of his artwork. The creations were “painted” over the traditional monogram canvas, which brought a radical new twist to the timeless design. Marc Jacobs also commemorated a previous collaboration, designed by Stephen Sprouse. This collection, originally released in 2001, featured bold print that looked like graffiti, over the traditional canvas. The recreation of the collab used the same idea, but gave it a new twist using bold colors, like hot pink, neon green, and orange, that also glow in the dark. This recreated version of the graffiti collection was finally released in 2009 to much fanfare. Louis Vuitton also collaborated with Kanye West in 2009, designing his own limited run of shoes. Most recently, Jacobs teamed up with Yayoi Kusama to create the “Infitinetly Kusama” Collection, which features bold colors of dots over the vernis leather or the monogram canvas. These pieces come in black with white dots, red with white dots, and yellow with black dots. It was released in July 2012.
Controversy and disputes
Britney Spears video
On 19 November 2007 Louis Vuitton, in further efforts to prevent counterfeiting, successfully sued Britney Spears for violating counterfeiting laws. A part of the music video for the song “Do Somethin'” shows fingers tapping on the dashboard of a hot pink Hummer with what looks like Louis Vuitton’s “Cherry Blossom” design bearing the LV logo. Britney Spears herself was not found liable, but a civil court in Paris ordered Sony BMG and MTV Online to stop showing the video. They were also fined €80,000 to each group. An anonymous spokesperson for LVMH stated that the video constituted an “attack” on Louis Vuitton’s brands and its luxury image.
“Simple Living” image (left) and Vuitton’s Audra bag, created by Takashi Murakami (right)
On 13 February 2007, Louis Vuitton sent a Cease and desist order to Danish art student Nadia Plesner for using an image of a bag that allegedly infringed Louis Vuitton’s intellectual property rights. Plesner had created a satirical illustration, “Simple Living”, depicting a malnourished child holding a designer dog and a designer bag, and used it on T-shirts and posters to raise funds for the charity “Divest for Darfur”. On 25 March, the court ruled in favour of LV that the image was a clear infringement of copyright. Despite the ruling, Plesner continued to use the image, arguing artistic freedom, and posted copies of the Cease and desist order on her website. On 15 April 2008, Louis Vuitton notified Plesner of the lawsuit being brought against her. Louis Vuitton demanded $7,500 (5,000 Euro) for each day Plesner continues to sell the “Simple Living” products, $7,500 for each day the original Cease and desist letter is published on her website and $7,500 a day for using the name “Louis Vuitton” on her website, plus legal and enforcement costs.
An LVMH spokeswoman interviewed by New York Magazine said that Louis Vuitton were forced to take legal action when Plesner did not respond to their original request to remove the contested image, nor to the subsequent Cease and desist order. In October 2008, Louis Vuitton declared that the company had dropped its lawsuit but have since reopened it along with a new €205,000 claim due to a painting by the same artist. In May 2011, the court in The Hague found in favour of Plesner’s right to freedom of expression.
In May 2010, the British Advertising Standards Authority banned two of the company’s advertising spots, depicting craftsmen at work on its products, for being in breach of its ‘Truthfulness clause’. The ASA said that the evidence supplied by Louis Vuitton fell short of what was needed to prove the products were made by hand. The ASA said that the two adverts would lead consumers to interpret that Louis Vuitton bags and wallets were almost entirely hand-crafted, when they were predominantly created by machine.
The ASA stated: ‘We noted that we had not seen documentation that detailed the entire production process for Louis Vuitton products or that showed the proportion of their manufacture that was carried out by hand or by machine. Vuitton denied that their production was automated, arguing that over 100 stages were involved in the making of each bag; they however admitted that sewing machines had been used in production process.’
Checker pattern chair in Hong Kong Barber shop
In February 2013, Louis Vuitton issued a complaint against the owner of a barber shop in Hong Kong for allegedly violating its intellectual property rights in relation to a stool using fabric coating that is similar to the checker pattern in Louis Vuitton’s handbags. According to the Hong Kong-based Apple Daily newspaper, the company was seeking a compensation of HK$25,000 (around US$3,200) and the publication of an apology in the form of newspaper advertisement. The owner had sourced basic furniture and equipment from the PRC for starting his shop. Facing this accusation, the barber shop owner said he had no means to tackle Louis Vuitton and may have to close down his shop which has been operating for 1 year in a remote local district on Hong Kong Island. The controversy had caused tremendous concern on Hong Kong news forums and viral protest on Facebook pages.
S-Lock copyright in Hong Kong
In another legal warning dated back to Sep 2012, Louis Vuitton had filed complaints against two small retail shops in Hong Kong for allegedly violating its intellectual property rights in relation to the “S-Lock” design for Louis Vuitton’s handbags. According to the Hong Kong-based Apple Daily newspaper, the company was seeking a compensation of HK$40,000 (around $US 5,000) and a public apology in the newspaper. The shopkeeper refused to pay, and Louis Vuitton demanded further damages up to HK$150,000 in February 2013. The shop claimed to have sourced 2 such handbags from Japan at around HK$120, which it retailed at HK$220. In the case of the other small-shop selling 2 handbags, they argued with Louis Vuitton that the designs were different, and got LV’s demand reduced to HK$5,000 (around US$640). The owner refused to pay and said they were ready to face LV in court.
Louis Vuitton News 2016
We exist on the digital frontier, at the dawn of a virtual age in which all experience will be filtered through screens. Nicolas Ghesquière, long one of fashion’s most intrepid designers, isn’t looking back. Since he arrived at Louis Vuitton in early 2016, the idea of travel has propelled him; Vuitton has been in the business of making luggage since 1854, after all. But this season he took a different kind of journey. “We are all living with this new dimension,” he said afterward. “We are all managing how to integrate these new notions of digital, virtual, and cyber with our real life.”
A conversation between technology and nature animated the new collection, his most audacious yet for the house, and one that had his fans chiming, “The old Nicolas is back.” The old Nicolas was a sci-fi obsessive and an experimentalist, qualities he subsumed early on during his tenure at LV that came rocketing to the fore here. His reference points were many: Wong Kar Wai’s 2046 and the anime series Evangelion came up backstage. The show itself started with an introduction to the video game Minecraft, which will be familiar to anyone with young children. Later, a sound clip from Tron: Legacy, the original of which was a favorite movie from Ghesquière’s own childhood, played. “I tried to picture clusters of information as they moved through the computer,” Jeff Bridges intoned. “What did they look like? Ships? Motorcycles? Were the circuits like freeways? I kept dreaming of a world I thought I’d never see, and then one day . . . I got in.”
Ghesquière’s cyberpunks wore moto jackets and metal-embroidered skirts, laser-cut leathers and beaded knits that coded like armor, and spaceship-print pants. Leather gauntlets keyed a tough, aggressive attitude, but the designer’s vision was not a dystopic one. On the contrary. He was quick to point out that his materials looked high-tech but were actually not synthetics at all. What with the nailhead-embroidered peasant dresses, the crafty sweaters, and the festival-girl crop tops and shorts, Vuitton Spring looked a lot like a digital bohemia.
Tag: Louis Vuitton